Stephen Le

A táplálkozás
százmillió éves
története

Mit ettek az őseink,
és miért fontos ez ma?
– részlet –

Fordította Varró Zsuzsa

A könyv megjelenését a Nemzeti Kulturális Alap
a kiadói program keretében támogatta.

Nemzeti Kulturális Alap

A fordítás a következő kiadás alapján készült:
100 million years of food
Copyright © 2016 by Stephen Le. All rights reserved.
Hungarian translation © Varró Zsuzsa, 2021
Hungarian edition © Typotex, Budapest, 2021
Engedély nélkül semmilyen formában nem másolható!

Lektorálta: dr. Wunderlich Lívius

ISBN 978 963 493 107 2

Typotex Kiadó
Alapította Votisky Zsuzsa, 1989
A kiadó az 1795-ben alapított Magyar Könyvkiadók
és Könyvterjesztők Egyesülésének tagja.
Felelős kiadó: Németh Kinga
Főszerkesztő: Horváth Balázs
Felelős szerkesztő: Széll Szilvia
Borítóterv: Somogyi Péter
Elektronikus könyv: Nagy Lajos

Apámnak és anyám emlékének

Tartalom

Bevezetés.

Ízletes ízeltlábúak

A csábítás trükkjei a gyümölcsöknél

A hús kísértése

Ki (nem) szereti a halat?

Keménykedő keményítők

Elixírek

Titokzatos nyavalyák és a parazitapaktum

Jóból is megárt a sok: kalóriák

A táplálkozás jövője

Utószó

Köszönetnyilvánítás

Láb- és végjegyzetek

Irodalom

Bevezetés
Mit együnk, és hogyan éljünk?

Az emberek világszerte egyre növekvő mértékben szenvednek az olyan egészségügyi problémáktól, mint az elhízás, a 2-es típusú cukorbetegség, a köszvény, a magas vérnyomás, a mellrák, a különféle ételallergiák, az akne vagy a rövidlátás. Ezek a „civilizációs betegségeknek” is nevezett problémák az elmúlt évszázadokban és évtizedekben szinte már általánossá váltak. Azok a bevándorlók, akik a világ fejlettebb régióiban telepednek le, sokszor még inkább ki vannak téve ezeknek az egészségügyi gondoknak, mivel átveszik az ottani, számukra új életvitelbeli és táplálkozási szokásokat. Igaz ugyanakkor, hogy a jobb egészségügyi ellátás és a várható élettartam meghosszabbodása nagyban hozzájárul azokhoz az okokhoz, amiért kénytelenek ezekkel az újfajta betegségekkel szembenézni. E problémák gyors előretörése azonban mégiscsak azt jelzi, hogy valami más baj is van – de vajon mi lehet az?

A táplálkozás százmillió évéről szóló könyvemnek az a legfőbb állítása, hogy napjainkban azért áraszt el bennünket a különféle betegségek valóságos özöne, mert az étrendünk, az életmódunk és a környezetünk az őseinkéhez képest jelentősen megváltozott. A könyvből kiderül majd, hogyan táplálkoztak és éltek őseink, továbbá gyakorlati javaslatok is találhatók benne arra vonatkozólag, hogy kisebb módosításokkal hogyan illeszthetjük be őseink szokásait a mai mindennapi életünkbe, hogy elkerüljük vagy legalább késleltessük a főbb krónikus betegségek kialakulását.

A józan ész is azt diktálja, hogy úgy étkezzünk és éljünk, mint elődeink, és számos könyv foglalkozott már ennek megvalósítási módjaival. Ugyanakkor komoly nézeteltérések vannak a tekintetben, hogy az ősi táplálkozás és életmód mely aspektusait is kellene átvennünk és a magunkévá tennünk. A paleodiéták némely változatában például azt javasolják, hogy kerüljük a mezőgazdaságból származó olyan alapélelmiszereket, mint a kenyér, a rizs, a bab és a tej, és fogyasszunk helyettük inkább húst és zöldségeket, míg mások azt állítják, hogy az amerikai farmerek kenyéren, babon és tejen alapuló hagyományos földművesétrendje a legegészségesebb.

Az én szüleim az 1960-as években vándoroltak be Vietnámból Kanadába. Egy montreali egyetemen ismerkedtek meg, és három fiút neveltek fel Ottawa egyik juharfákkal szegélyezett kertvárosában. Mivel odavoltam a rovarokért és egyéb apró lényekért, én lettem az ügyeletes tudós a családban. Negyedikes koromban egy mikroszkópot kaptam karácsonyra, amelyet üveglapokon szétlapított szúnyogok tanulmányozására használtam. A következő évben Charles Darwin A fajok eredete című műve várt a karácsonyfa alatt. A könyv rendkívül apró betűkkel volt írva, a nyelvezete pedig kisiskolás fejjel követhetetlen volt, de annyit így is éreztem, hogy forradalmi gondolatok bújnak meg ezeken a lapokon.

Nyolcéves voltam, amikor megérkezett hozzánk a nagyanyám Vietnámból. Akkor láttam őt először. Egy nagykendőbe volt bugyolálva, púpos volt, és ráncos, akár egy boszorkány. Nagymama kinyitotta a bőröndjét, és átnyújtott nekem egy lakozottfa-szemekből készített övet és egy papírvékony szelet szárított banánt, amelynek mézes ízét szinte még ma is érzem a számban. Egyszer, egy iskolai szünetben az öcsémmel ellátogattunk hozzá abba a lakásba, ahol a nagynénémmel élt. Nem volt náluk se energiaszelet, se joghurt, se bömbölő televízió – csak egy hintaszék, néhány polc tele érthetetlen nyelven íródott könyvekkel, egy üveg halszósz, egy rizsfőző, néhány régi, gyűrött vászon konyharuha és az ablakon beáradó lágy napfény. Nagymama nem törődött a helyes táplálkozásra vonatkozó hivatalos ajánlásokkal – nem is értett angolul –, ugyanúgy élt egész életében, és azt ette, amit az ősei: egy tál rizst, néhány marék szárított, darabolt sertéshúst halszósszal leöntve, mellé pedig egy halom, wokban sült spenótot. Örültem, amikor este végre hazamehettem a videójátékaimhoz és az energiadús rágcsálnivalóimhoz.

Nem tulajdonítottam különösebb jelentőséget a nagyanyám étrendjének, amíg huszonhárom éves koromban, életemben először el nem látogattam Vietnámba. Bármerre jártam az országban, feltűnést keltettem, mivel a helybéliekhez képest szinte égimeszelő voltam. Bár 177 centiméteres magasságommal és 68 kilómmal a korosztályomban átlag alattinak számítok Kanadában, így is tíz centivel magasabb és tizenkét kilóval nehezebb voltam észak-vietnámi kortársaimnál, akik pedig két és fél centivel voltak magasabbak és nyolc kilóval súlyosabbak, mint a velük egykorúak egy generációval korábban.1 Minek tulajdonítható ez a gyors változás? Amikor Vietnámban bárhol meghívtak vendégségbe, a házigazda rendszerint valóságos lakomákat tálalt fel, amelyekben bőségesen volt sertéshús, csirke vagy hal. Ha azonban váratlanul toppantam be étkezési időben hétköznapi emberekhez, megpillanthattam a vidéki konyhát a maga mindennapiságában: fehér vagy barna rizs, őserdei zöldségek, ízesítésként erjesztett hal- vagy szójaszósz, tofu, illetve kis rák- és haldarabkák. A húsban és tejtermékben gazdag észak-amerikai étrend engem nyilvánvalóan magasabbá tett, de mint később megtudtam, az ilyenfajta étrenden élőknél nagyobb bizonyos krónikus betegségek kialakulásának a kockázata.

Odahaza Kanadában anyámnál mellrákot diagnosztizáltak, és a kór átterjedt a tüdejére is. Miután befejeztem doktori tanulmányaimat Los Angelesben, három hónapra hazaköltöztem, hogy segítsek anyámat ellátni és gondozni. Hatvanhat éves korában halt meg, mindössze két évvel a saját édesanyja halálát követően, aki kilencvenkét évet élt. A családban mindenki másként próbálta feldolgozni a történteket. Apám közhasznú tevékenységekbe fektette az energiáit, a testvéreimet lefoglalta a saját családjuk, én pedig elhatároztam, hogy az ősi táplálkozás és életmód kutatásába vetem bele magam. Ki akartam deríteni, milyen rizikófaktorok húzódnak meg a mellrák és más, a nyugati civilizációval gyakran összefüggésbe hozott betegségek mögött.

Biológiai antropológiát (az ember evolúciójával foglalkozó tudományt) tanultam a Los Angeles-i Kaliforniai Egyetemen (UCLA), majd két évig kutattam az emberi táplálkozást és az azzal összefüggésbe hozható betegségeket szerte a világon. Megfigyeltem és megkóstoltam, mit esznek az emberek, és beszélgettem termelőkkel, egészségügyi szakemberekkel és másokkal, akiknek közük van az ételekhez és a táplálkozáshoz. Kezdtem megérteni, miért vallanak egymástól gyökeresen eltérő nézeteket az egészségügyi szakértők arról, hogy mely ételek egészségesek. Először is, nagy a zavar a rövid távú és a hosszú távú egészség megkülönböztetését illetően. Egy olyan étrend, amitől valaki magasabb, erősebb vagy termékenyebb lesz, bizonyos fokig egészséges ugyan, de kizárólag ettől még nem biztos, hogy az illető tovább is fog élni. Evolúciós szempontból ez teljesen érthető, ahogy azt majd később látni fogjuk, de a rövid és a hosszú távú egészség közötti különbségek fölött sok egészséggel foglalkozó kutató átsiklik, vagy félreértelmezi őket. Ezzel elérkeztünk a második főbb gondolkodásmódbeli buktatóhoz, amelybe az étkezés és táplálkozás szakértői és az ilyen témákról publikáló írók rendre beleütköznek: mégpedig, hogy hajlamosak figyelmen kívül hagyni vagy félreérteni az emberi evolúciót, és helyette inkább az emberi táplálkozás és fiziológia túlságosan leegyszerűsített modelljeire koncentrálnak. Megpróbálni megérteni az emberi táplálkozást és egészséget anélkül, hogy megértenénk az evolúciót, olyan, mint kihallgatni egy beszélgetésfoszlányt a szövegkörnyezet ismerete nélkül: nem lesz sok értelme, vagy tévútra vezet.

A megfigyeléseim és a táplálkozással foglalkozó tudományos kutatások újraértelmezésének eredményeképpen felfedeztem néhány eljárást, amelyeket az egészségünk megőrzése érdekében alkalmazhatunk. Ezeket a lépéseket a könyvben több helyen is taglalom, és összefoglalom az utószóban is. Mindazonáltal van három dolog, amit a mai modern társadalmakban élők egészségének megőrzése érdekében én a legfontosabbnak tartok. Ezek a következők:

Mozogjunk! A táplálkozással összefüggő betegségek túlnyomó része az emberi életmódban bekövetkezett alapvető változásból fakad: az embert folyamatosan próbára tevő fizikai és szellemi tevékenységről áttértünk az ülő életmódra, amelyet eszelős testmozgásrohamok szakítanak meg (már ha egyáltalán). Bár a közhiedelem szerint őseink az állandó fizikai igénybevétellel sokkal több kalóriát égettek el, mint a mai emberek, a rendelkezésre álló bizonyítékok paradox módon nem támasztják alá ezt a feltételezést. Sőt mi több, bár az elmúlt évtizedekben robbanásszerűen megnőtt a testmozgás népszerűsége, ugyanezen idő alatt a kóros elhízás mértéke is tovább növekedett. Az elégtelen testmozgás és az elhízás közötti kapcsolatot bírálók rámutattak, hogy a mozgástól az emberek éhesebbek lesznek, ezért többet kezdenek enni, a test pedig ezt az anyagcsere lassításával kompenzálja, amivel semmissé teszi a testedzés minden előnyét.

Mint kiderült, a fizikai aktivitásnak a jellege, nem pedig a mennyisége a döntő. (A szellemi aktivitás lanyhulása is veszélyes lehet az egészségre, mint majd később látni fogjuk.) Hímnemű őseink körülbelül tizennégy és fél kilométert tettek meg gyalog naponta, a nők pedig mindennap közel tíz kilométert. A gyaloglás csökkenti az IGF-1 (1-es típusú inzulinszerű növekedési faktor) hormon szintjét, és ezzel mérsékli az olyan hormonális alapú betegségek kialakulásának a kockázatát, mint a mell- és prosztatarák vagy az akne. A hosszas gyaloglás csökkenti a cukorbetegség rizikóját, és fogyni is lehet tőle. Ehhez képest egy átlagember naponta körülbelül négy kilométert tesz meg a saját lábán, a nap többi részét pedig üléssel, autóvezetéssel és majdnem ötórányi tévénézéssel tölti. A tévénézést összefüggésbe hozták az elhízás, a kettes típusú diabétesz, a szív- és érrendszeri betegségek és – nemes egyszerűséggel – a korai elhalálozás nagyobb kockázatával.

Fiatalabb korunkban együnk kevesebb húst és tejterméket! Kerüljük a cukrot és a bő olajban sült ételeket! A hús legalább kétmillió évre visszamenőleg alapvető volt az étrendben, de az elmúlt tizenkétezer év nagy része során az emberek többségének sokkal kevésbé volt módja hozzájutni. Körülbelül kilencezer éve néhány populációban elkezdték megfejni a teheneket és a kecskéket, de a legtöbb nép számára a tejtermékek a hús és a zsír pótlékául szolgáltak. A hús és a tej rendkívül tápláló, tartalmazza az emberi élet fenntartásához szükséges valamennyi aminosavat, ásványi anyagot, zsírsavat és vitamint, de e két dolog együttes fogyasztása az újabb időkben példa nélküli az emberiség történetében – és túl sok is. Ráadásul, ahogy egyes népek gazdagabbá váltak, az emberek cukorhoz és növényi olajokhoz is hozzájutottak.

A hormonműködés – mint például az inzuliné és az IGF-1-é – felborul, ha túl sok állati fehérjét, cukros és olajban sült ételt eszünk.2 Ha több állati eredetű ételt fogyasztunk, valószínűleg magasabbak, erősebbek és termékenyebbek leszünk, és jobban is fogjuk érezni magunkat, ezek az ételek azonban valószínűleg megrövidítik az élettartamunkat. A húsfogyasztás a fiatalabbak hosszú távú egészségére a legveszélyesebb, mivel a daganatos és más krónikus betegségek általában évtizedek alatt alakulnak ki. Az idősebbek egészségének viszont jót tehetnek a tápanyagban gazdag állati eredetű ételek. Paradox helyzet, hogy elkényeztetjük gyermekeinket, és hagyjuk, hogy azt egyenek, amit akarnak, amikor pedig már idősebbek vagyunk, és krónikus betegségekben szenvedünk, önmérsékletre intjük magunkat. Ez teljesen elhibázott stratégia. Ha az a célunk, hogy segítsünk a gyerekeknek elkerülni a krónikus betegségeket, akkor korlátoznunk kellene náluk az állati eredetű ételek fogyasztását; az időseket viszont bátran buzdíthatnánk arra, hogy egyenek húst, és élvezzék az életet.

Táplálkozzunk hagyományainknak megfelelően! Ahelyett, hogy azon aggódnánk, mit együnk és mit ne, táplálkozzunk inkább hagyományainknak megfelelően! Az évszázadok alatt tradicionálissá váló étrendek azon alapulnak, hogy az ételek kombinációja mennyire tett jót az egészségnek, és milyen jó az összetevők együttes íze. Amikor őseink húshiányban szenvedtek, számtalan módot találtak ki arra, hogy ízletes és egészséges ételeket készítsenek, amelyekben megfelelő egyensúlyban vannak a tápanyagok. Sőt mi több, azokban a társadalmakban, ahol az emberek évszázadokig vagy évezredekig egy bizonyos étrenden éltek, az anyagcseréjük fokozatosan alkalmazkodott ehhez, mint például a laktóz (tejcukor) megemésztéséhez az észak-európai, indiai és kelet-afrikai emberek esetében. Étkezzünk hagyományos módon, együk azt, amit a mi őseink ettek.

Az egyik probléma ezzel a stratégiával, hogy sokan nem tudják, mit ettek az őseik. Ebben a könyvben bejárjuk a táplálkozás történetének legfontosabb állomásait, a gyümölcsöktől, hústól, keményítőktől, alkoholtól és tejtermékektől egészen a vízi élőlényekig és a genetikailag módosított terményekig, és megnézzük, miért ettük a különböző ételeket, illetve hogy ezek milyen hatással vannak az egészségünkre. De legelőször is visszamegyünk százmillió évet az időben, és szemügyre veszünk egy olyan ételfajtát, amelyet néhány nagyon távoli ősünk nyilvánvalóan nagy élvezettel fogyasztott: a rovarokat és egyéb csúszómászókat. Az őseinknek megfelelt – vajon megfelelne nekünk is?

Köszönetnyilvánítás

A következő embereknek tartozom hálával, amiért jótanáccsal és útmutatással láttak el, és/vagy más módon voltak segítségemre a kutatásaim és a könyv megírása során:

Ausztrália Ashan Abeykoon és Greg Hampton (Charcoal Lane étterem), Hung Ba Ha, Huong Dang, Jon Belling, Mark Olive, Nhan Nguyen, Su-Lyn, Thu Van Ha, Trang Nguyen, Van Dinh Luong, Vi Kinh Tran, Shanaka Fernando

Belgium Matt Roosen (B&D Business Development)

Egyesült Arab Emírségek Kristine Abante

Egyesült Királyság Anh Dao Nguyen, Anna Ohanjanyan, dr. Jens Groth, Phan Nguyen

Görögország Agapi Fyssaki-Angelogiannaki, Costas és Ariadni Melengoglou, Nikolaos Kerdelas

India Bhanumathy Chandran, C.R. Chandran, dr. Clea Chandmal, dr. Bajish Chandran, dr. K. Jithendranath, Hyacinth Pinto, Subin Vazhayil

Izland Ægir Freyr Stefánsson, Égzeus Belial, Elín Ýr Sigurbjörns-dóttir Kolbjörg Katla Hinriksdóttir, Linda Arnheiđardóttir

Japán Albert Phu, Shinichi Motada, Yasuko Tsukamoto, Yoshida Yoko, Yoshiko és Hiromi Ono

Kanada Chi Tran, Chuck Brown és Michael Szemerda (Cooke Akvakultúra), dr. Dounia Daoud, dr. Inka Milewski, dr. Phuong-AnhNguyen, dr. Thierry Chopin, Efrain és Hee-Sun Andia, Gerry Oleynik (Kiefro Vaddisznó Farm), Jim Gifford (Harper Collins Canada), Katie Schleit és Rob Johnson (Ecology Action Centre), Kyle Worsley, Michael Bandurchin, Ngoc-Tran Pham, Nguyen Ngoc Dung, Quoc Pham, Ross Horgan, SieuTruong, Susana Hemken, Theresa ‘Mai Khanh’ Nguyen, Walter Henn (Bearbrook Game és Natural Meats), Wendy Burpee

Kenya Heather Katcher, Huyen Ngoc Tran

Kína Bengbu College, Grace, Jiangong Zhou, Kay, Micheal, Nancy Zhou, Shuyan Qi, Yifei, Ying Yuan

Laosz Caroline Gaylord, Joy Ngeuamboupha

Pápua Új-Guinea Aloish, Dominic Anis, Frank

Svédország dr. Helena Pettersson, dr. Linus Holm

Thaiföld Amarat Chai, Amnat, Amy Phongphanh Chanthavong, dr. Jintana Yhoung-Aree, Hoang, Tasanee Athayu

USA Angélique Pivoine, Audrey Mai, Caitlin James-Leés John Le, Craig és LaVon Griffieon, Diane Ott Whealy, dr. Cristina Moya, dr. Dean Ornish, dr. Gail Kennedy, dr. Harish Rajagopalan, dr. Jared Diamond, dr. Matthew Gervais, dr. Michelle Kline, dr. Rebecca Frank, dr. Stacy Rosenbaum, dr. Tom Wisdom, Emma Yee, Hee Sun Kim, Helene Atwan (Beacon Press), Jon és Soon-Young Hinkhouse, Jonathan Stutzman, Lindsay Parsons, Lisa Hao-Ran, Mark Sisson, Mary Ann de Vries és Tom Schlife, Megan Pierce, Miho Morishita, Natalie Transu, Robert Faturechi, Ryan Langton, Sally Fallon Morell, Susan Rabiner, Thomas Greiling, Truong-Chinh Nguyen, UyenNguyen

Vietnám dr. Giap Nguyen, dr. HuyenThanh Vu, dr. Luong Ly, Giang Huong Thi Vu, Hang Thang Le, Hang Thi Dao, Lap Dinh Nguyen (DungNhat), Ly Van Tran, Mac McDougall, Nhat Hoa, PhungVong, Thanh Huyen Phan, Thuy (TrieuSon), Tran Thi PhuongThao

Szeretnék külön is köszönetet mondani Annie Nguyen-Báránynak, Ina Melengoglounak (www.altsys.gr) és Jana J. Monjinak, amiért segítettek nekem a könyv tervének kidolgozásában, valamint Zhongxuan Linek, dr. Daniel M. T. Fesslernek, dr. Guy Drouinnek, dr. Stépahne Aris-Brosounak; édesapámnak, dr. Can D. Lenek, az irodalmi ügynökömnek, Don Fehrnek (Trident Médiacsoport) és a szerkesztőmnek, Anna de Vriesnek a Picador USA-nál, kiemelkedő segítségükért.

Jegyzetek

Bevezetés. Mit együnk, és hogyan éljünk?

1 Khan et al.: Secular Trends in Growth and Nutritional Status of Vietnamese Adults in Rural Red River Delta after 30 Years (1976–2006).

2 Fontana: Long-Term Eff ects of Calorie or Protein Restriction on Serum IGF-1and IGFBP-3 Concentration in Humans; Gunnell et al.: Are Diet – Prostate Cancer Associations Mediated by the IGF Axis?

Irodalom

Az internetes hivatkozások utolsó ellenőrzése: 2021.10.16.

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